Q. Why do some rebounders require people to change the springs every 2 years and not others like the Cellerciser?
A. Because they stretch out from weak, low carbon, lower tensile steel. They can look the same and perform nearly the same in the beginning. But, after 3 months is when most people complain about their rebounder when they notice the stretching. The springs rarely break but just lose their tensile and yield strength which many people think is nice because the bounce becomes softer but the Health bounce becomes less and less.
Q. Which rebounder is the best for over 200 lbs.?
A. One that supports you and designed to support this weight or can adapt to this weight. The Cellerciser and Needak Hard bounce are my favorite. If right at 200 the Lymphaciser is good but can feel a little jarring if you bounce to high.
Q. Whats the main thing to look for in a quality rebounder?
A. 1st thing, the mat and the spring structure...2nd, the frame integrity and welding..3rd, the supporting parts, the rubber feet and spring covers. The Cellerciser, Needak, Bellicon, and Lymphaciser are my top 3 as far as high quality engineering. The Cellerciser is the most advanced in the spring rebounders and the Bellicon for the bungees.
Q. What happens if I sweat on the rebounder or leave it outside in the rain?
A. Some can rust and others don't. On high end rebounders, they don't rust but oxidizes. Example: Oxidation is when a car paint changes color but doesn't rust. A good quality electroplated painting protects against rust. The bungees you definitely need a cover for so they don't get loud. I have had my Cellerciser outside for 2 winters and 2 summers, nothing was effected. I did have the cover off and none of the springs rusted nor any of the frame. The other rebounders totally rusted and were a mess but didn't affect the performance, just the looks.
Q. Why does my rebounder squeek so much?
A. Oil it silly! Good quality steel will squeek more than low quality steel. There is more friction potential. The Cellerciser before it was coated with the dual silver alloy, made a terrible noise I heard. Now it has a dual coating but that coating still makes noise when the hooks rub the frame. Note: the springs don't make noise, its the rubbing of the hooks that rub the frame. Always oil both ends of your springs so that the springs will not fatigue. Fatigue causes the rebounder spring to heat and cool repetitively which causes the spring to become weak and break. Many people use sprayable graphite which for most people will make any spring rebounder noise free for at least 10 years if you do it right. That is what people tell me. I know a guy that used to use graphite back in the 70s who took apart guns in the Navy Seals so they would be water proof. This was the guy who told me about it. It takes about 4 hours for someone to apply it. Much more time consuming than putting a drop of oil but its worth it according to everyone who does it.
Q. How do I know which rebounder springs should be replaced without replacing them all?
A. See spoon test. Or buy a better spring set from the start. I always weigh them to see if they all weigh the same on the scale. I want to return the springs that aren't the same. It bugs me if I have half my springs just say 92 grams, some of them 90 grams and a few that are 93 and 94 grams.
Q. Will the rebounder quality diminish after a few years?
A. Some will and some won't. A better quality rebounder should last at least 20 years. Cheaper rebounders need to be replaced every few years. Usually the part that breaks is the mat or where the hooks go in if the frame is low quality.
Q. How do I clean my rebounder?
A. Hose it off if the rebounder is water resistant but if not, then wipe it with a damp towel. If you don't dry a non water resistant model, the corrosive elements can make it rust. Near the beach, hose off a rebounder once a week if left outside. Electroplated models doesn't really need to be dried off. People in florida near the beach leave their Cellerciser by their pools and I have never heard a complaint.
Q. Is a plastic rebounder frame or metal frame better?
A. Metal always. Common sense.
Q. Are heavier springs better than lighter rebounder springs?
A. This cannot be answered this way. It depends on the component material of the springs. The Lymphaciser springs are tiny almost like those 50 dollar rebounders but have high carbon while some springs like the Needak have to replaced every 2 years to keep up their tension.
Q. Why is my rebounder making all these black marks on my rug?
A. Cheap rubber tips can wear down much faster. That is all it is doing. Polymer feet will not mark up the rug.
Q. How do I prevent mold from developing under the rebounder's spring cover?
A. Mold resistant spring covers are usually the water resistant type. Canvas type covers mold quicker. Anytime a reboudner can hold dampness, it can mildew and mold. Not good.
Q. What do I do to prevent paint from chipping off my rebounder frame?
A. Get an electroplated painted frame and avoid a powder coated paint that flakes. Or you can get a solid stainless steel frame that has no paint at all.
Q. My rebounder springs have stretched and it's only been a year. Why is this happening?
A. Cheap, low carbon steel springs are almost always the cause or they weren't rated to the weight of the user.
Q. My rebounder is wobbling due to something that has caused the frame to warp. Why?
A. This is usually from an inferior quality rebounder frame that has had poor quality control. Always check your rebounder when you get it to make sure the legs are evenly supported on the ground. Some people have to duck tape one of the legs to keep the rebounder from wobbling.
Q. Can a mat rip when jumping on it?
A. A good quality rebounder mat made of Permatron will not rip like nylon or canvas or plastic mats. An inferior mat will tend to throw you off which will let you know the mat has stretched or weakened. An inferior mat will not support you properly which is why it will throw you off.